Gaspar Grande island is one of the Western Isles that lies off the North-Western peninsula of Trinidad. It is steeped in history. It measures a mere half of a square mile but punches high for its size. Gasparee, as it is more commonly called, was the site of a cotton plantation (under the original owner, Gaspar Percin de la Roque), a fort at Bombshell Bay and a whaling station on its Western extreme  at Pointe Baleine (French for Point Whale). It is also the site of the amazing limestone Gasparee Caves.

The Garden Club of Trinidad had the distinct privilege of being hosted at the beautiful home of Mark and Erica Farfan, aptly named ‘Belle Baleine’ on Pointe Baleine for our  August meeting. They are both keen gardeners and despite the hostile environment of limestone rock outcrops, almost no topsoil and desert-like rainfall, they have managed to transform brush land into a tropical, xeric retreat.

Some rock was removed, some topsoil was brought in and through a bit of a trial-and-error system, along with love for indigenous flora, a veritable garden retreat was born. Not a manicured, fussy garden but a resilient and romantic one, sculpted by arduous work, salty air, thin, rocky soil, and low rainfall.

Rainwater is gold on Gasparee and every drop possible is captured and stored in an unobtrusive system of cisterns for yearlong use. Soil too is precious, so an area of the land has been allocated to composting, the final product of which is used as an amendment gradually building up the native offering.

Our group ambled along limestone paths, guided by our host, first to an awe-inspiring cactus towering many yards above our heads and with a ‘trunk’ (a cactus is not a tree) wider than a stout man. Not long ago this already stunning specimen was in full flower, a feast not just for the eyes but for the wasps and bees of the island. Erica was able to supply me with pictures of this spectacle.

Along the way there were agaves, a beautiful White Ghost Cactus (not a cactus at all but a Euphorbia), orchids, native bromeliads and sansevierias, a Tamarind tree with flowers resembling small orchid blooms, Neem trees, a small orchard of citrus trees, and an Adenium in full, breathtaking flower.

On the opposite side a Flamboyant tree was living up to its local name with its unashamedly, bold red blooms contrasting beautifully against the tropical, blue sky. What a treat!

A big part of the beauty of this garden is the rocky island itself and, of course, the sea view. This fact was not wasted on Mark and Erica. A vanishing edge plunge pool occupies prime real estate on the extreme edge of the island, giving its willing occupants unforgettable views, including sunsets fit for the gods. Bottlenose dolphins are frequent visitors to this seascape and even the occasional whale is sometimes sighted. To the left of this pool is a wooden bridge leading to a platform shaded only by day, designed to accommodate sunbathers and stargazers alike.

Our meeting was intentionally kept very informal save for the executive expressing their gratitude to Mark and Erica and for welcoming Vanessa Dalla Costa to the Club. Our departure for the mainland was in the nick of time as soon after our return the heavens opened with a tropical deluge that would have surely drenched us all.

 Our Gasparee excursion was certainly a memorable, informative and enjoyable one!